kale and citrus salad with vanilla bean vinaigrette

As usual, I’m late to the party. 

Because we are well into citrus season, and because you don’t live under a rock, you probably know that citrus this year is amazing. 

I, on the other hand, had somehow managed to make it to the middle of February without eating one single orange or grapefruit or pomelo. Which is why I was unaware that we are in the middle of a perfect storm of citrus deliciousness. 

I did a little online sleuthing and discovered that last year’s drought, combined with unusually cold weather and rain (finally!) in southern California have resulted in one of the juiciest, most flavorful citrus crops in years. Now I’m on a mission to consume as much citrus as possible before the season ends. I highly recommend you join me.

Peel-and-eat is never a bad strategy. But if you need fresh inspiration for what to do with all that excellent citrus, let me introduce you to one of my favorite winter salads:

In true So Cal style, it’s got a variety of jewel-toned oranges, sweet medjool dates and a handful of spicy pepitas for crunch. The kale is sturdy enough for all those big flavors. The vanilla and shallot vinaigrette adds both earthiness and zing. 

I made this for lunch today and decided it’s the perfect salad for jazzing up a grey winter day. Healthy. Bright. And full of bold flavors. 

I for one will be making this salad many more times before winter’s over. And hoarding as much citrus as I can manage.

---

Kale and Citrus Salad with Vanilla Bean Vinaigrette

• 1 bunch young kale (I like Lacinato kale), stems removed and torn into bite-size pieces
• Fine sea salt
• 4 oranges (I used a mix of blood oranges, cara caras and heirloom navel oranges)
• 4 large, fresh medjool dates, pitted, halved and sliced crosswise into thin strips
• 1/2 cup spiced pepitas (see below)
• 1 recipe vanilla bean vinaigrette (see below)

For vinaigrette:

• 1 vanilla bean
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 2 tablespoons minced shallot (from 1 small shallot)
• 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• Pinch fine sea salt
• 4 tablespoons olive oil

For spiced pepitas:

• ½ cup raw hulled pepitas
• ¼ teaspoon olive oil
• ¼ teaspoon toasted and ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon honey
• Pinch cayenne
• Pinch fine sea salt

*Note: By the time I finished shooting this salad, I was super hungry and decided it needed a little more substance. I tossed in some leftover roasted chicken and it was transformed into filling lunch. A little leftover roasted salmon would work, too.

Place the torn kale in a large bowl and sprinkle lightly with salt.  Rub the salt into the kale leaves (this helps tenderize the greens) and set aside while you make the vinaigrette.  

Using a paring knife, scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and place them in a medium bowl with the sugar, shallot, sherry vinegar, lemon juice and salt. Add the oil in a thin stream while whisking. Set aside for at least 10 minutes to allow the shallot to mellow and the flavors to come together.

Place the pepitas in a medium skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until they begin to turn golden brown, pop and smell nutty. Immediately transfer the hot pepitas to a small bowl and add the olive oil, cumin, honey and salt. Stir to coat evenly. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set the seasoned pepitas aside to cool.

Slice the peel and pith from the citrus and cut them into rounds about ¼-inch thick. Place them in a small bowl and spoon a bit of the vinaigrette over them. Dress the kale with the vinaigrette to taste. Set the greens and citrus aside for another 10 minutes or so to allow the vinaigrette to work its magic.

To assemble the salad, add the citrus (along with any juice at the bottom of the bowl) to the kale. Add half the pepitas and half of the sliced dates. Toss gently to combine. Place the salad on a serving platter or individual plates and top with the remaining dates and pepitas. 

The dressed kale and citrus will hold for a day in the fridge (don’t add the pepitas or they’ll get soggy). The vinaigrette will hold for 3-4 days, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.

Makes 4 servings.

swiss chard and winter squash salad with pomegranate vinaigrette

I’m a little later getting this post up than I’d hoped. This is mainly because I was in a foul mood when I returned to Seattle from my trip to Portugal, Brussels and Paris. 

Monday was especially rough. I woke to a gunmetal sky and crushing rain. The idea of returning to the daily mundanities of doing dishes, answering email and paying bills left me huddled beneath the covers, imagining myself back to the limestone streets of Lisbon. Eventually, I managed to roll out of bed, dress and get on with the business of day-to-day life. 

Somewhere in the middle of this stormy week, a small shift took hold. I unpacked my suitcases and fell into the familiar rhythms of cooking breakfast, doing laundry, watering plants. I snuggled my cat and brewed pots of tea. I settled into being Home.

When I was finally ready to sit down and write this post, it occurred to me that those little rituals of home are what cured me of my post-travel blues. And none more so than the pleasure of being back in my own kitchen, cooking for loved ones.

Thanksgiving is right around the corner. And while I’m not a huge fan of all the holiday pomp, I am ever in favor of cooking for those you love. I made this salad for Beau and I this week and realized that it would be right at home on the holiday table. Any leftover salad is wonderful with pieces of roast chicken (or turkey) tossed in. And I have a hunch that a few spoonfuls of cranberry sauce would play right along with the sweet squash and toasty pine nuts. 

I’m finally feeling happy to be home. I’m looking forward to the traditions that make the holidays bright. And, more than ever, I’m appreciating the little rituals that connect our days. For me, one of those rituals is sharing my travels and photos and recipes with you. So thank you for being here, part of the home it feels so good to return to!

---

Swiss Chard and Winter Squash Salad with Pomegranate Vinaigrette

• 2 lbs. delicata squash, halved lengthwise, seeded and sliced into 1/4-inch thick half moons
• 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for roasting the squash
• Sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper
• 1 small shallot, minced (should yield 2-3 tablespoons)
• 1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
• 1 bunch Swiss chard, stems removed and torn into bite-sized pieces
• 1 bunch kale, stems removed and torn into bite-sized pieces
• 3 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley leaves, roughly torn if large
• 3 tablespoons mint leaves, roughly torn if large
• 1/3 cup toasted pine nuts
• 1/3 cup crumbled feta

* Notes: I like the way the delicata looks in this salad and the fact that you don’t have to peel it , but any winter squash will work here. If you’re using a different squash, I recommend cutting it into 3/4 cubes (for a squash like butternut) or 1/2 inch slices (for a squash like acorn). Cook time will vary depending on the squash and how thickly you’ve cut it, but should range from 20-35 minutes.

– For this salad, I look for Swiss chard with white stems. The ones with red and orange stems have a mineral beet flavor that I don’t like as well in this recipe.

– I use lacinato kale in raw salads because I think it’s the most tender. 

Preheat the oven to 475°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Place the squash on the sheet pan and toss with olive oil to lightly coat. Season generously with salt and pepper. Roast, turning squash after 10 minutes, until light golden-brown and cooked through, about 20-25 minutes total. When the squash is done roasting, set it aside to cool.

While the squash is cooking, make the vinaigrette. In a medium bowl, combine the shallot, red wine vinegar, pomegranate molasses, a generous pinch of salt and a few grindings of black pepper. If you have time, let this sit for 10-15 minutes to mellow the shallot. Whisk in 6 tablespoons of olive oil. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set aside.

To assemble, place the Swiss chard and kale in a large bowl. Add the mint, parsley, 2/3 of the cooled squash and half the pine nuts to the bowl with the greens. Lightly dress the salad with the vinaigrette. Taste and add a bit more dressing if necessary. Arrange the salad on a serving platter and top with the rest of the squash and pine nuts. Crumble the feta over the top and serve.

Makes 4-6 servings.

warm potato, kale and octopus salad with chorizo vinaigrette

In May, I was in Portugal for a photography workshop with the super-talented women behind Little Upside Down Cake and Local Milk. Sanda and Beth offered guidance and encouragement as we chased light and shadow through the winding streets of Lisbon. I learned a lot. And connected with a group of inspiring, creative women from around the world.

After the workshop, I wandered Lisbon and Porto solo, scouting unique restaurants, shops and markets to share on my upcoming culinary tour. Which resulted in me falling more in love with Portugal than ever. It’s funny to think how a tiny country I’d never dreamed of visiting two years ago, has fast become one of my very favorite places.

There are so many reasons to fall for Portugal. The light, for one. There’s something about the clear, bright light and the way it casts deep shadows. It’s so unlike the soft, cloud-filtered light we have in Seattle. 

The architecture in Portugal is another. It is at once incredibly grand–baroque churches and towering castles–and slightly down-at-heel. The country is full of peeling, timeworn monuments to its history as a renaissance super-power of the high seas. 

The people also make Portugal easy to love. The Portuguese have a slightly reserved but warm and generous spirit. Everyone I met was eager to help me out when I got lost or share information on where to find the best salt cod fritters or traditional egg pastries. 

And the food. 

I almost don’t have words to describe how much I love the food in Portugal. Maybe because, unlike with the cuisine of France or Italy or Spain, I harbored no high expectations for the food of Portugal. It’s excellence was a total surprise. 

Portugal is a country of creamy soft-ripened cheeses and expertly cured meats. The most amazing fresh sardines I’ve ever had, charred and smoky from the grill. Salty-crisp cod fritters. And everything anointed with the country’s superlative gold-green olive oil. 

The ubiquitous pastel de nata (egg custard tart) is a thing of beauty still warm from the oven with a cup of strong coffee.  And I had something called a pão de deus–a fluffy brioche with a creamy layer of coconut under a golden, crisp coconut top–that almost brought tears to my eyes it was so good. 

When I returned home, I found myself missing the flavors of Portugal. So I put together this salad  to remind myself of my time in Lisbon and Porto. It is not a traditional dish by any means. But it has all the classic Portuguese flavors I love: kale, chiles, silky potatoes dressed in olive oil, tender grilled octopus and–perhaps best of all–smoky chorizo.

It’s my own little ode to the flavors of that sunny country by the sea.

---

Potato, Kale and Octopus Salad with Warm Chorizo Vinaigrette

• 2 cups stock or water
• 1 small onion, peeled and quartered
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 small dried chile (or a large pinch of chile flakes
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1 teaspoon coriander seed
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus additional to season
• 1/2 cup olive oil, divided
• 1 small octopus (mine weighed 3 ¾ lbs), cleaned
• 1 lb. new potatoes
• 1 teaspoon fennel seed
• Generous pinch chili flakes, or to taste
• 3 oz Spanish- or Portuguese-style cured chorizo, cut into very thin matchsticks
• 2 large garlic cloves, minced
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
• ½ teaspoon black pepper
• 1 small bunch kale (I like Lacinato kale), stems removed and torn into 2-inch pieces
• ¼ cup hot or sweet pickled peppers, cut into rings or roughly chopped
• 2 tablespoons parsley leaves
• ¼ cup whole mint leaves

*NOTES: If you live in Seattle, you can buy excellent quality octopus at Wild Salmon Seafood Market. 

I like Mama Lil’s pickled peppers, but any hot or sweet pickled pepper will add the kick you need to balance the chorizo and olive oil.

Combine the stock, onion, bay, chile, peppercorns, coriander, ½ teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed stock pot or Dutch oven. Bring to the boil over high heat. Add the octopus and bring the liquid to a simmer. Reduce the heat to maintain a bare simmer, cover and braise the octopus until it is very tender, about 90 minutes.

Remove the octopus from the braising liquid and set it aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, cut the tentacles from the body. Arrange the octopus on a platter or sheet pan and place in the refrigerator to cool completely. (You can braise the octopus a day in advance if you like.)

While the octopus is braising, cook the potatoes. Place in a large saucepan with enough cold water to cover by 1 inch and a generous pinch of salt. Bring to the boil over high heat then reduce heat and cook at a simmer until the potatoes are very tender, but not falling apart. The time will vary based on the size of your potatoes, but start checking after 8 minutes. Drain, but do not cool by running under cold water. Set aside.

Heat the remaining 6 tablespoons of olive oil over medium high heat in a large saute pan. Add the fennel seed and chili. Cook for one minute then add the chorizo. Cook until crispy, about 5 minutes. Remove the chorizo strips with a slotted spoon. Set aside. 

Place the minced garlic in a medium bowl. Add the hot oil and spices from the saute pan along with the lemon juice, sherry vinegar, ½ teaspoon salt and pepper and whisk to combine. 

Cut the warm potatoes in half and place them in a large mixing bowl. (If you let them cool completely, they don’t absorb the dressing as well.) Toss the potatoes with the kale and ¼ cup of the vinaigrette. 

Heat a grill or grill pan to high heat. Toss the octopus with one tablespoon of the vinaigrette. Grill until the octopus is slightly charred and crisp. When it’s cool enough to handle, slice the octopus  into 2-inch pieces.

Add the grilled octopus to bowl with potatoes and kale. Add the pickled peppers, herbs and reserved chorizo. Toss to coat. Taste and adjust seasonings, adding the rest of the vinaigrette and more salt and pepper if desired. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 4 main-course servings.