Visiting Paris never gets old. It doesn’t matter how many times I’ve been, I always find fresh inspiration in the City of Light.
I was there last month leading two culinary tours. With each group, I spent a week cooking, eating, drinking and generally reveling in the beauty of Paris. I’ve been often enough now that I can navigate from memory. Which changes your experience of a place. Without my nose buried in a map, I was able to spend more time contemplating the city.
Which led to my latest observations about Paris:
The city is full of secret little corners and vignettes: People napping or reading or playing pétanque in the small, verdant parks that dot the city; hidden courtyards overflowing with fragrant roses and jasmine .
Parisian women actually do wear bright red lipstick and look ridiculously sexy pretty much all the time.
If you become a regular at a cafe, the owner might one day pull out a dusty bottle of eau de vie from his personal stock in the cellar and pour you a shot to drink with him in the middle of the afternoon. Just because.
Parisian men wear cologne and several times a day, one of them will walk past leaving you in an intoxicating wake.
It’s hard to be in a hurry in Paris. Things happen when they happen. You might wait in line for 30 minutes at the grocery store. Your server is smoking and can’t be bothered to get you another glass of wine. The restaurant you wanted to go to is inexplicably closed.
But you make your way home with your groceries. And when she’s done with her cigarette, in language bordering on the rapturous, your server will take the time to recommend just the right wine. And you’ll discover a delightful new restaurant around the corner from the one you were originally going to. I love this looseness and the fact that you never quite know what might happen on any given day.
Oh, and this chocolate cake:
I learned to make this cake at Tours de Cuisine, a small cooking school and wine cellar in the 11th arrondissement. I always take my culinary tours there, partly because the proprietors, Vincent and André provide such a warm welcome and such delicious food and wine. And partly because it’s so pleasing to watch what at first appears to be total chaos--a jar of flour over here, a stick of butter somewhere over there, where are the eggs again?--transform over the course of a few hours into a wonderful meal.
When we arrive at Tours de Cuisine, I always hold my breath, wondering if my group of Americans will be put off by Vincent and André’s laissez-faire approach to cooking instruction. But inevitably, they love it. The organic way the classes unfurl, so different from most American cooking classes with their neatly-printed recipe packets, orderly trays of prepped ingredients and precise timelines.
This cake was the highlight of a recent pastry class at Tours de Cuisine. It’s a very Parisian affair. Just a few ingredient tossed together on the fly yield a dark and silky chocolate cake that’s infinitely variable. It can be dressed up or down. It's fantastic crowned with a coffee glaze, studded with candied citrus zest or drizzled with warm salted caramel. But I like it best fancied up with a dollop of basil cream and a handful of summer berries.
It reminds me of Paris. And how a little chaos can give rise to beautiful surprises.
Mini Dark Chocolate Cakes with Basil Cream and Summer Berries
- 3 ½ oz. (100 grams) dark chocolate, roughly chopped
- 3 ½ oz. (100 grams) unsalted butter, cut into cubes
- 1 teaspoon espresso powder or instant coffee
- Pinch salt
- 3 ½ oz. (100 grams) sugar
- 1 heaping tablespoon all-purpose flour
- 2 large eggs
- 1 recipe Basil Cream (see below)
- 2 cups mixed summer berries (I used raspberries, strawberries and salmon berries)
- Powdered sugar, for dusting
*Notes: The secret to these moist little cakes is steaming them. You will need a silicone mini cake mold like this one in order to turn the cakes out after you steam them. I know it's a bit fussy, but this technique is well worth the effort. I am not a chocolate dessert person at all and these cakes make me swoon every time I eat them because they are so moist and dense and delicious.
If you don’t want to deal with the whole steaming business, you can cook your cakes in a 400°F (205°C) oven for about ten minutes. You don't need a silicone mold for this, but be sure to generously butter your cake tins and dust them with cocoa powder before pouring in the batter.
I used 70% dark chocolate from Theo for this recipe and it made super chocolatey cakes that weren't at all too sweet.
*For a gluten-free version: substitute nut flour or a gluten-free flour mix for the all-purpose flour.
Melt the butter and chocolate in a double boiler. If you don’t have a double boiler, fill a small saucepan with 1 inch of water and bring to a simmer. Place the butter and chocolate in a medium heat-proof bowl and place over the saucepan of simmering water. Stir until melted. Add the espresso powder or instant coffee and salt and stir to dissolve. Set aside to cool slightly.
Place the eggs and sugar in a medium bowl and whisk until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is slightly fluffy, about 2 minutes. Gently stir the chocolate mixture into the eggs and sugar. Sprinkle the flour over the top and stir to combine.
It seems that many French people own electric steamers like this one. If you happen to have a fancy electric steamer, you are in luck, as it is the easiest way to cook these cakes.
If you, like me, do not own one of these beauties, you’re going to have to get creative to steam your cakes. I ended up using a dutch oven with an inverted baking dish inside. It wasn’t the prettiest, but it got the job done. I suggest looking through your cupboards to see what sort of makeshift steamer you can come up with. An Asian steamer basket would be great, but a large pot with something heatproof inside should work just fine.
When you have your steamer set up, pour an inch or so of water in the bottom. Place your mold in the steamer and fill the molds almost to the top (the cakes will expand a bit as they cook). Cover the mold with foil to keep too much water from getting in. Heat the water until you have steam, then cover and cook the cakes for 20-25 minutes. The time will vary depending on the size of your cakes. Start checking at 20 minutes by inserting a paring knife into one of the cakes to make sure it is set all the way through. Remove the mold from the steamer and set aside for 15 minutes to cool slightly. Transfer to the refrigerator and chill completely before un-molding, at least an hour.
To serve cakes, make sure they aren't ice cold. They don't need to be room temperature, but I found the texture is best if you let them warm up for 20-30 minutes at room temperature. Serve with a dollop of basil cream and a small handful of mixed berries. Dust with powdered sugar if desired.
Basil Cream
- 1 cup (235 mL) heavy cream
- 15 large basil leaves
- 2 tablespoons super-fine sugar
Gently bruise the basil leaves by hitting them with the back of a wooden spoon or scrunching them in your hand. This will help release the essential oils. Do not chop the basil or it will blacken and result in grey cream.
Bring the cream to a gentle simmer in a small saucepan. Add the basil leaves. Remove the pot from the heat, cover and let steep for 30 minutes. Strain the infused cream through a fine mesh sieve. Cover the cream and refrigerate until very cold (or it won’t whip properly).
Transfer the chilled cream to a medium bowl. Add the sugar and whip until soft peaks form.
ginger-grapefruit popsicles
Hello!
I’m back in Seattle and happy to be home after seven (!) weeks of traveling. Europe was amazing; I can’t wait to tell you about it! But while I’m sifting through the mountain of photos I took, I thought I’d share a summertime recipe that would be a great addition to your Fourth of July barbecue.
Since we’re riding a very un-Seattle-like heatwave at the moment, these Ginger-Grapefruit Popsicles are my new favorite dessert. I love grapefruit in all forms, but these sweet-tart popsicles are especially refreshing on a scorching summer day. The grapefruit juice is infused with fresh ginger for a little extra zing. And they’re finished with a ribbon of buttermilk for a tangy, creamy note that makes the grapefruit really sing.
These are good even without the buttermilk and I suspect yogurt would play well with the grapefruit and ginger flavors, too. You could also infuse the grapefruit juice with a little fresh mint or even chile if you wanted to spice things up a bit. If you do decide to improvise (which I hope you will!), I’d love to hear back about what flavor combinations you loved.
Happy Summer and XO!
Olaiya
Ginger-Grapefruit Popsicles
- 4-5 large, ripe grapefruit (I prefer ruby red grapefruit for this recipe, but any kind will do)
- ½ cup sugar (or to taste)
- 3-inch knob fresh ginger, thinly sliced then, roughly chopped (no need to peel)
- ½ cup buttermilk
- 2 tablespoons tequila (optional)
- Pinch salt
Using a microplane, grate the zest from one of the grapefruit. Be sure to avoid as much of the pith as possible or your popsicles will be bitter. Place the zest in a small saucepan.
Juice enough of the grapefruit to yield 3 cups of juice. Strain and place one cup of the juice in the saucepan with the zest. Add the sugar and the ginger and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat, cover and set aside to steep for 30 minutes.
Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir in the remaining 2 cups juice, buttermilk, tequila and salt. Pour into a popsicle mold, cover with lid or aluminum foil. Insert popsicle sticks and freeze until solid, about 2 hours.
Makes 10 ⅓-cup popsicles
Inspired by Bon Appetit
spring slaw with herb-roasted salmon
As you’ve probably figured out from previous posts, I am not the best at keeping things short and sweet.
This is part of the reason I don’t post as often as some. I love the meandering process of creating new recipes. Paging through cookbooks. Weaving my way through the farmers market. Testing. Tweaking. Pulling linens and china and silverware to find just the right pieces to set the mood. Then photographing. And finally, finding the words to describe a memory sparked by a dish, or the grain of inspiration from which it came.
As to whether I regret this slow pace, I am of two minds.
I post here to share recipes and thoughts and experiences. To encourage others to cook and travel and gather around the table with friends new and old. Part of me would like to share more. And more often.
And part of me knows that rushing the process would erode the joy. And likely the quality of what I create as well.
But there is, of course, a time for short and sweet.
Right now I’m in Europe doing all sorts of marvelous things--taking a photography workshop, leading culinary tours in Paris, and doing research for a tour of Portugal in the fall. When I get back home, summer will have arrived. But I didn’t want to leave you without any spring recipe inspiration.
So here’s a recipe I put together to celebrate the tender spring produce that should be hitting farmers markets right about now. It’s my interpretation of a delicious spring vegetable slaw I had at Manolin in Seattle. (If you’re going to be anywhere near Seattle, you need to get on over there, pronto!)
In my version, tender shaved asparagus is the star of the show. Its delicate nuttiness is beautiful against a handful of sweet shelling and snap peas. And the cruciferous tang of thinly sliced baby turnips and broccoli stalks is balanced with a creamy honey-almond vinaigrette.
This crunchy slaw is great on its own or piled high on top of a simple filet of roasted fish. Either way, it comes together in no time, short and sweet--and just right for a fresh, springtime supper.
Spring slaw with herb-roasted salmon
- 1 recipe herb-roasted salmon (see below)
- ½ cup whole almonds
- ½ cup neutral-tasting oil (I used sunflower seed oil)
- 1 garlic clove, minced or pressed
- 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 2 tablespoons honey
- Pinch salt
- Pinch cayenne
- 3 tablespoons homemade or best quality store-bought mayonnaise
- 12 oz. asparagus, shaved with a vegetable peeler
- ½ cup shelled English peas (from about 12 ounces of pods)
- 1 cup sugar snap peas, stemmed and sliced on a sharp bias
- 5-6 baby turnips, very thinly sliced or shaved
- 1 4- to 6-inch broccoli stem, peeled and julienned or shaved
*NOTES: Feel free to use whatever crunchy spring vegetables you find at the market for this slaw. Radishes would be lovely. Or fava beans. Morels or other mushrooms quickly sauteed with a little garlic would not be amiss.
I use this peeler to julienne vegetables.
For a vegan version, simply omit the mayonnaise from the dressing and add an additional tablespoon or two of the almond-infused oil.
Preheat the oven to 375°. Spread the almonds out on a rimmed sheet pan and roast until dark golden brown and fragrant, about 13 minutes. Transfer the almonds to another sheet pan or plate to cool.
When the almonds are cool, place them in a food processor and process until coarsely ground. Place the ground almonds in a small saucepan and top with the oil. Heat over medium heat until the oil foams. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to infuse for at 10 minutes. Strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve, reserving the ground almonds.
To make the vinaigrette, combine the garlic, sherry vinegar, lemon juice, honey, salt, cayenne and mayonnaise in a small bowl. Whisk to combine. While whisking, gradually add ¼ cup of the almond infused oil. Taste and adjust seasonings. (Use any oil you have left drizzled over roasted vegetables or fish or mixed with a little honey drizzled over ice cream.)
Just before serving, dress the slaw to taste with the vinaigrette. Top with the reserved ground almonds and a sprinkle of sea salt.
Makes 4 servings
Herb-Roasted Salmon
1 2- to 2 ½-lb. fillet wild salmon with skin, pin bones removed (I like Sockeye or King)
Olive oil
Coarse sea salt
A small bunch of mixed herb sprigs. (I used rosemary, thyme, dill, and tarragon.)
1 2- to 2 ½-lb. fillet wild salmon with skin, pin bones removed (I like Sockeye or King)
Olive oil
Coarse sea salt
A small bunch of mixed herb sprigs. I used rosemary, thyme, dill, and tarragon
Preheat oven to 300°. Arrange the herbs on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Lay the salmon on top of the herbs, skin-side down. Drizzle with olive oil rub the oil over the salmon to coat completely. Sprinkle with salt. Roast the salmon until medium rare, about 12 minutes per inch of thickness. You can start checking at about 8 minutes by inserting a paring knife in the salmon. You want it to flake and look moist, but not raw in the interior, like this. Keep in mind it will cook a bit more once you take it out of the oven.
Remove the salmon from the bed of herbs and place it on a serving dish. Serve warm or at room temperature topped with dressed slaw.
Makes 4 servings
